marcil



(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

M. MARGIL. STRAW BRAID SEWING MACHINE. No. 407,297. Patented July 16, 1889.

F1 I b j e 5 @E T U y a hf 9 0 Io, O

E; 1 w A ml 1 \x/ih esaeai l va tm. 4 0691, a&m Jacks? JfwmzZ.

N. PETERS. Phololilhagraphur. Washington, D. (2

(N0 Model.) 3. SheetsSheet 2.

M. MARCIL. STRAW BRAID SEWING MACHINE.

No.'407.297. Patented July 16, 1889.

(No Mudel.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

M. MARGIL.

STRAW BRAID SEWING MAGHINB.

No. 407,297. Patented July 16, 1889.

Witnesses; 'fiVET'ltUY- UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MICHEL MARCIL, OF AMHERST, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE HILLS COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

STRAW-BRAlD-SEWING MACHINE.v

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 407,297, dated July 16, 1889.

Application filed Via; 14, 1888. Serial No. 273,779. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MICHEL MARCIL, of Amherst, county of Hampshire, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Straw-Braid-Sewing Machines, of which the following description, in connect-ion with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object to improve that class of sewing-machine for sewing braids, as in the manufacture of hats and head-ware, my invention being an improvement on that described in United States Patent No. 292,124,

granted to me on the 15th day of January,

My present invention consists, in the combination, with a presser-foot, a bed-plate, and an edge-guide adjustable just above it to guide the edge of the body of the article, of a braidgage supported by a lever and made movable independently of the presser-foot, the said braid-gage guiding the edge of that braid which is being stitched to the body part of 2 5 the article.

My improved braid-gage, as herein shown, is provided with a stud extended upwardly through a sleeve depending from an adj ustable carriage, the stud at a point above the 0 said sleeve having a lug which is acted upon by a gage-lifting lever, by which the said gage may be raised after lifting the usual presserfoot by its usual cam-lever pivoted upon the head of the machine.

Figure 1 is an end elevation of a sewingmachine embodying my invention, the presscr-foot being lifted, the braid-gage being left down. Fig. 2 is a left-hand elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a partial right-hand elevation of Fig. 1, with its presserfoot and its bar and the main gage and the needle-bar omitted, the head of the machine being broken out to show the thread-clamping mechanism, no part of the machine back of the dotted line m, Fig. '2, being shown; Fig. 4, a detail of the braid-gage and the sleeve and carriage with which it co-operates. Fig. 5 shows the tension in detail, and Fig. 0 is a detail of the clamping mechanism for the thread.

The frame-work A of the machine, of suitable shape to sustain the working parts, has

in its bearings for the main hook shaft A, provided at its front end with a hook of the \Villcox & Gibbs pattern. (Not shown.) The main shaft carries an eccentric, which, by an eccentric-strap A is joined to a stud A of an arm A, clamped to the needle-bar actuating rock-shaft A, the said shaft supported in suitablelcearings A having at its front end an 6o arm B, which at its outer end is attached to a short link a, jointed or pivoted to a long stud (0, attached to and extended backwardly from the needle-bar in usual manner and provided with a loose shoe a which travels in a guideway at the rear side of a plate a Referring to the thread-clamping mechanism, the head of the machine has fixed to it a thread-guide (Z, between which and a bar d is passed the needle-thread. This bar (1' is secured by a screw (1 to a rod d extended through the head or a bushing therein and through a spiral spring, as (1 the said rod having an arm (1 having a cam-shaped edge which is struck'by the arm B at its lowest and highest points, so as to leave the needlethread slack just as the point of the usual hook is to enter the loop of needle-thread, and again as the needlebar is completing its ascent to finish the stitch. The thread led from a spool (not shown) is passed first into an eye 4-, and thence between a spring 6 and a stand 6, the said spring and stand constituting an auxiliary tension, the force of which is regulated by a screw 6 the said force being not greater than the minimum tension to be put upon the thread, the said auxiliary tension completely obviating the kinking of the needle-thread between it and the main tension device F. 0

The main tension device is composed, essentially, of two disks f f, having a central hole and fitted loosely over a fixed stud f about and against which the needle-thread passes on its way to the guide 5 and the hole 5 6 in the needle-bar. The two disks ff are slipped loosely overa fixed stud f, on which is placed two cup-like washers 7 8, which receive between them a spiral spring 9,- a nut 10 being screwed upon the said rod to vary the ten- I00.

sion on the needle-thread, as desired,

The edge-guide G, for determining the position of the edge of the body of the article being stitched, is the same in construction and operation as that designated by the letter 19 in United States Patent No. 331,207, and as shown therein has a rearwardly-extended shank, made, preferably, A-shaped, to enter between two beveled friction-plates, (not herein shown, as they form no part of this invention,) by means of which the guide may be adjusted.

The presser-bar G has at its lower end a presser-foot h, attached to the said bar by a nut 12. To steady the presser-bar, I have fixed to it a clampingbar h, which is extended baekwardly and made to embrace a V-shaped guide h". The head of the machine has a bracket 72 in which is placed a carriage 70 having a depending sleeve its, the said carriage being longitudinally adj ustable by a lever or other equivalent device h. This sleeve 71? receives through it and forms a guide for the rod 14, attached to the braidgage m, the latter at its front end having a lip 15 and an overhanging stud or projection 16, the said lip 15 entering between the body portion of the material, and the under side of the braid being stitched to the same, the proj ection 1G crossing the said braid and preventing the same from curling up in front of the needle n. This braid-gage is best shown in Fig.4. The upper end of the rod 1 i, above the sleeve and carriage referred to, has a lug 18, which is acted upon by the forward end of a lever 12, pivoted at p, the opposite end of the said lever in practice having joined to it a suitable treadle-rod.

The presser-foot is lifted in usual manner by a cam-lever 20, and when lifted the braidgage does not follow it, for the braid-gage can be lifted only by the lever.

The braid-gage on can be adjusted longitudinally to place its face in proper position by or through the carriage h and the lever h.

The feed mechanism herein shown forms the subject-matter of another application, Serial No. 29 5,2398, filed September 14, 1888.

I claimsaid guide 7L5 loosely, and with a lever to lift the said rod 14 and its attached braid-gage, substantially as described.

2. The presser-foot, the lever 20, to lift it and not lift the braid-gage, the bed-plate, the adjustable edge-guide G, and the braid-gage m, having the vertical rod 14, and the guide Jr", detached from the presser-foot and guiding the said rod, combined with a second lever 19, to engage the said rod 14 and lift the said braid-gage, substantially as described.

3. The bed-plate and the presserrfoot, C0111- bined with an independent detached braidgage m, having a vertical rod 14 and a lip 15, and with the longitudinally-adjustable carriage having a sleeve or guide h for the said rod 14:, and the support for the said carriage en tirely above the said bed-plate and independent of the said presser-ii'oot, substantially as described.

4. The bed-plate and the presser-fooi, combined with an independent detached braidgage 172, having a vertical rod 14 and alip 15, and with the longitudinally-adjustable carriage having a sleeve or guide 7L5 for the said rod 14;, and the support for the said carriage entirely above the said bed-plate and inde pendent of the said presser-foot and with a lever to adjust the said carriage horizontally and with it the said braid-gage, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presen cc of two subscribing witnesses.

MICHEL MARC/IL.

Witnesses:

GEo. F. ALEXANDER, \V. A. DICKINSON. 

